If you’ve never heard of the term “pourriture noble” (also known as noble rot) then you wouldn’t be the first. Winemakers have long struggled to combat mold in their vineyards and cellars, but when it comes to this particular rot they welcome it with open arms. Providing that conditions are just right, this special fungus creates grapes known to produce some of the most wonderfully sweet wines in the world.
Noble rot, termed botrytis, is the same grey fuzzy mold you can see on berries and other soft fruits when they begin to spoil. A combination of moisture, sunlight and temperature is required for the fungus to thrive and grapes must be harvested at the right time to avoid full-blown rot. The process begins early fall when grapes are healthy and ripe on the vine. Morning dew and mist allow for the ideal environment that the fungus needs to flourish followed by sunshine and drier conditions that stop the rot in its tracks. As this pattern repeats itself the botrytis continues to suck water from the grapes while the flavors, sugar, and acid concentrate.
A rather risky process, the grapes must be individually hand-picked once they are the perfect amount of shriveled otherwise growers risk losing their entire crop. When properly controlled, the resulting wines are complex in flavor, honey-like, and sweet. It’s a labor-intensive process along with the quantity of grapes needed to produce just one bottle to make noble rot wines among the most expensive in the world.
Noble rot tends to happen in areas of vineyards close to bodies of water and the most well-known of them are located in Europe. Due to the climate-specific elements needed for the phenomenon to occur, winemakers in warmer regions have even experimented with importing botrytis and spraying their vineyard with the fungus!
Ideal as an aperitif, digestif, or simply on its own these sweet sippers are more than just dessert wines. Here are some of the most established and historic noble rot regions. You may recognize a few.
France
Loire Valley: Only two regions within the Loire Valley have the conditions needed to produce botrytized wine, Layon River Valley and Vouvray. Full of flavor and crisp delicacy, the thin-skinned Chenin Blanc grapes are defined by their richness and high-acidity that is important in counter-balancing the sweetness. Versatile in style, these wines are often described as having notes of orange marmalade, ginger and saffron. Popular pairings are fish, poultry and cream sauces.
Bordeaux and Southwest France: The properties of Semillon and Sauvignon blanc grapes combined with the Ciron and Garonne rivers flowing through forests lined with pebbles and limestone provide the ingredients to make some of the finest botrytized wines in the world. The two most well-known varieties, Sauternes and Barsac, are capable of aging for decades and pair well with desserts, savory cheeses, foie gras, pate and even spicy Asian dishes.
Hungary and Slovakia
Tokaj (northeast Hungary and southwest Slovakia): According to legend the Tokaj-Hegyalja region is said to be home to the oldest wine using botrytized grapes. Coveted by royal customers including King Louis XIV and Catherine the Great, the wines of this region are a window into the past. The hilly landscape, nearby rivers and fog provide the perfect environment for the fungus to develop. Common pairings for Tokaj (also referred to as Tokaji Azsú) include foie gras and Hungarian crepes.
Germany
Typically light in body and characterized by juicy fruit and acidity, the most noble botrytized wine in Germany is Riesling. Large bodies of water, rivers and northerly climates allow the grapes here to ripen through an extended growing season. Because of Riesling’s sweetness and acidity, it makes a lovely pairing with Indian and Asian spices, poultry, shellfish, and delicate cheeses.
Austria
Located on the warmer east side of Austria, Lake Neusiedl, creates the perfect conditions for botrytis to develop. Historically, the villages located on its shore have been famous for their sweet wines with documentation going back to the mid-16th century. One of the towns even used its local wine, Ausbruch, to buy their freedom from Emperor Leopold I. Traditional pairings range from blue or soft cheeses, goose liver, apple strudel and sweet dumplings.